Articles Languedoc Roussillon

Réchauffement Climatique : Les enjeux pour le secteur viticole

19 janvier 2017

Réchauffement climatique, ce gros mot qui fait peur aux vignerons

Perspectives en Languedoc-Roussillon

Cette année 2016 fut compliquée pour les vignerons du Languedoc-Roussillon. Elle n’avait pourtant pas si mal commencé. Alors que les vignobles du nord avaient été durement touchés par des épisodes de grêle, de gel et par le mildiou pendant le printemps, dans le sud en revanche, les températures et une bonne aération des vignobles favorisée par la Tramontane avaient permis aux feuilles de se développer, puis aux bourgeons de se former, d’éclore et enfin de se transformer en beaux petits grains de raisins.

Alors que s’est-il passé ? Dans le Roussillon, les conditions climatiques défavorables (fortes chaleurs et faible pluviométrie pendant l’été) n’ont pas permis aux raisins de se gorger en sucre et en eau, donnant ainsi peu de rendements (de moins 40 à moins 50% par rapport à une année moyenne). Mais le pire fut probablement enregistré dans la toute nouvelle AOC Pic Saint Loup du Languedoc, non loin des Cévennes, où près de 90% du vignoble fut décimé en quelques heures par un épisode de grêle en plein mois d’Août, peu avant les vendanges!

Ces malédictions, si elles ont de tout temps fait le malheur des vignerons, n’ont pour autant jamais été aussi fréquentes que ces dernières années.

A l’université Supagro de Montpellier et à l’INRA, tout comme un peu partout dans le monde, les chercheurs se creusent les méninges pour trouver des solutions aux enjeux climatiques de demain et définir quelle pourra être la viticulture dans 20, 50, 100 ans, sous quelle forme, dans quelles régions et à quelles conditions. Car ne nous voilons la face, que l’on suive les pronostics les plus optimistes (+1 degré en moyenne d’ici 2050) ou les plus pessimistes (+ 4 à 5 degrés), des changements doivent s’opérer dans les vignobles… rapidement! Si la plupart des cultures peuvent être alternées fréquemment en suivant des stratégies de court terme, ce n’est pas le cas de la vigne. La vigne est une culture de réflexion, d’engagement à long terme. Pour rappel, un plant de vigne ne commence à être réellement productif qu’après 4 ou 5 ans, et on ne peut commencer à parler de qualité qu’après 10 ou 15 ans. Autant dire qu’on ne réfléchit pas stratégie de plantation tous les 4 matins.

A quels problèmes le vigneron de demain doit-il se préparer ?

Sécheresse accrue
Tout d’abord, il y a bien sur l’augmentation des températures. Celle-ci ne s’opérera pas uniformément sur le globe. On peut s’attendre à des augmentations plus fortes dans les zones qui souffrent déjà de sécheresse comme la région du Languedoc Roussillon, mais aussi l’Espagne, le Portugal ou l’Italie. A ce problème se greffe celui de la variabilité de la pluviométrie. Si la pluviométrie annuelle devrait rester globalement stable, c’est sa répartition entre les différentes saisons qui serait profondément modifiée avec davantage de précipitations en hiver et une sécheresse accrue en été. Les épisodes de grêle devraient se faire plus fréquents également. Pas de quoi faire les affaires de nos précieux raisins!

Augmentation du nombre de ravageurs

Attaque des baies de raisin par mouches Suzukii

Avez-vous entendu parler de la mouche suzukii, ptit nom sympa pour un fléau qui a ravagé une partie des vignobles européens il y a quelques années ? Aujourd’hui, il n’existe aucun moyen de lutte efficace contre cette mouche, si ce n’est la présence de prédateurs, solution difficile à mettre en place. Et le problème des ravageurs ne fera que s’accentuer avec l’augmentation des températures. Reste à espérer que les prédateurs de ces ravageurs suivront la même tendance… au même moment.

Modification du cycle végétatif de la vigne

Si les températures augmentent, tout le cycle végétatif de la vigne s’en trouve bouleversé. La vigne risque de perdre de la vigueur et ainsi de produire moins de fruits. Les maturités du raisin (en sucre, en acide, en arômes) ne seront pas atteintes en même temps. Il n’y aura donc plus de moment de vendange idéal. Le vigneron devra arbitrer un choix entre bon niveau d’acidité, de sucre et potentiel aromatique. Il deviendra de plus en plus difficile d’atteindre un bon équilibre dans le vin sans interventionnisme lors de la vinification (ajout de moût concentré, acidification, etc).

A certains problèmes, des embryons de solution

La situation du Languedoc-Roussillon n’est pas la même que celle de la Loire ou de l’Australie. Les changements climatiques perturbent chacune de ces régions productrices mais de façon très hétérogène. Si les températures augmentent en Loire, on pourra toujours y produire du vin, à la limite même de meilleure qualité car les vignerons seront moins confrontés aux problèmes d’excès d’acidité et de verdeur liés au climat septentrional. Ainsi, certaines régions pourraient gagner en qualité (en tous cas pour un temps) grâce aux évolutions climatiques. Certaines régions non productrices aujourd’hui pourraient le devenir demain (on pense notamment à la Grande Bretagne, à la Belgique ou aux Pays-Bas)!

Sélection de cépages

Dans le Languedoc-Roussillon, la situation est déjà problématique aujourd’hui : les températures élevées, combinées à une faible pluviométrie en été, donnent des vins plus lourds, plus alcooleux, qui manquent de fraîcheur. Alors que dans les années 90, ces vins titraient à 11 degrés d’alcool, il est difficile d’en trouver à moins de 14 degrés ces dernières années! Certaines solutions existent, telles que le choix de cépages moins productifs en alcool. Mais bien sûr cela nécessite d’arracher les vignes actuelles pour recommencer à zéro.

Irrigation

Les AOC du Languedoc et Roussillon, comme d’autres régions du monde, autorisent depuis quelques années l’irrigation pour répondre aux problèmes de sécheresse des vignobles. Des études ont montré que le Bas-Rhône pourrait alimenter 10 à 15% du vignoble languedocien. C’est déjà ça mais quid des 85 autres pourcents ? Du côté de l’INRA, des tests concluants d’irrigation ont été effectués avec une partie des eaux usées récupérées d’une station d’épuration toute proche. Une société privée, Fruition, a quant à elle, mis au point un système de détection du flux de sève dans le plant de vigne. Ce système attaché au cep permet d’identifier à quel moment la plante a besoin d’eau pour se développer. Aucune piste ne peut être écartée tant le besoin en eau est vital dans le secteur.

Innovations dans les chais

Différentes techniques de vinification sont également utilisées ou en cours de développement pour rectifier les problèmes de maturité ou d’état sanitaire des raisins : acidification, désalcoolisation, électrodialyse, chaptalisation, flash détente, j’en passe et des meilleures. Certaines d’entre elles sont déjà autorisées en Europe. Si ces techniques présentent des avantages notoires, elles sont décriées par certains producteurs car, poussées à l’extrême, elles peuvent  dénaturer et lisser les qualités du vin. Fini l’expression du terroir, fini l’effet millésime!

Développement de nouvelles variétés de cépages : les hybrides

 Photo d’un cépage hybride, INRA Pech Rouge

Pour terminer ce petit tour d’horizon des pistes de réflexion sur la table, on entend également de plus en plus parler de cépages hybrides résistants. Ces cépages sont issus de croisements successifs entre des cépages actuels d’une même espèce (ex Vitis Vinifera) ou avec d’autres espèces qui présentent individuellement des propriétés intéressantes face aux différents challenges de demain. Combinés, les propriétés des cépages parents s’en trouvent ainsi décuplées. On parle de capacité à résister à certaines maladies de la vigne, à la sécheresse, de cépages présentant un taux d’acidité plus élevé, etc. L’aspect organoleptique n’est bien sûr pas oublié dans l’équation : on recherchera à développer certains profils aromatiques et gustatifs qui soient proches des cépages utilisés aujourd’hui. Néanmoins, l’acceptation de ces nouveaux cépages par les consommateurs finaux qui sont habitués à leur Cabernet Sauvignon de Bordeaux ne sera pas une mince affaire !

Challenge supplémentaire pour la France : la capacité d’adaptation du modèle des AOC 

En France, la problématique se fait plus forte que n’importe où ailleurs du fait du modèle des Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée mis en place dans les années 30. Contrairement aux pays du « Nouveau Monde » comme le Chili ou l’Australie, qui sont entrés récemment sur le marché du vin en l’abordant selon une stratégie de demande (ces pays produisent les vins attendus par la masse des consommateurs), la France s’est quant à elle engagée depuis des décennies sur la voie de la valorisation de terroir, de la différenciation, du savoir faire, et de l’utilisation de cépages rois. Ce modèle pourrait être en train d’atteindre ses limites.

Imaginez un instant dire aux Champenois que leur produit de marque qu’ils ont si bien su préserver pendant des décennies, qui est valorisé comme jamais auparavant, risque de s’effondrer parce que leur terroir ne sera plus propice à la production de Chardonnay ou de Pinot Noir.

Imaginez annoncer aux Bourguignons qui ont ciselé leurs parcelles au millimètre pour en faire des « climats » car le terroir d’ici est différent de celui un mètre en contre-bas, qu’il faudra bientôt cultiver le raisin plus en altitude pour continuer à produire la quintessence du Pinot Noir, et que leur parcelle actuelle vaudra bientôt tripette…

En conclusions

Toutes les régions productrices de la planète sont impactées par le changement climatique, toutes devront chercher des solutions propres à leurs spécificités.

Dans le cas de la France, lorsque les solutions des chercheurs seront mises sur la table, étudiées et sélectionnées, c’est peut-être tout le système des appellations qui devra être réécrit, avec de nouveaux cépages autorisés, de nouvelles méthodes de production, de taille, de solutions d’approvisionnement en eau, avec aussi de nouvelles zones de production définies et d’autres déclassées voire abandonnées.

Le système des AOC sera-t-il capable de s’adapter ? Aura-t-il encore du sens ?
Comment les vignerons si fiers de leur terroir, de leur typicité, arriveront-ils à tirer leur épingle du jeu ? Avec quelles solutions ?

Beaucoup de questions face à énormément d’incertitudes. Une chose est sûre : la machine est en marche. Aux institutions, syndicats, interprofessions, producteurs de s’informer, d’échanger, de projeter les scénarios possibles et de s’y préparer. Coûte que coûte.

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    Et voilà pourquoi j’ai déjà planter sous le climat de Hannut
    Vigne = travail, Raisins = patience, Vin = récompense

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